Coop building
Chicken Coop Windows: Placement, Screens and Glazing
Windows in a chicken coop do two jobs: let in daylight and let out heat and moisture. A dark, stuffy coop is unpleasant to clean and tends to stay damp. But every window is also a hole a raccoon would happily reach through.
This guide covers where to put coop windows, what to cover them with, and how to switch between summer and winter setups.
Quick answer
- Place windows above roost height or well away from roosts so sleeping birds are not in a direct draft.
- Every window needs hardware cloth fixed with screws and washers. Insect screen and glass alone are not predator barriers.
- For glazing, polycarbonate is safer and lighter than glass; acrylic is clear but more brittle.
- Use hinged or sliding covers so you can open windows wide in summer and partly close them in winter.
- Shade south- and west-facing windows in hot climates so they do not turn the coop into a greenhouse.
What coop windows are for
Ventilation
Openable windows are an easy way to add summer airflow. In winter, high vents usually do the job instead.
Daylight
Natural light makes the coop pleasant for birds and for you during chores.
Drying
Sun on the floor helps dry bedding.
Visibility
A window you can see through from outside makes quick checks easy.
Where to put coop windows
- Not right beside the roost. Air blowing across sleeping birds on a cold night is the classic winter mistake. Place windows above roost level, or on a wall away from the roost.
- Cross-ventilation in summer. Windows or vents on opposite walls let a breeze move through.
- Morning light. East-facing windows give morning sun without as much afternoon heat.
- Careful with south and west. In hot climates these can overheat the coop. Add an overhang or shade.
- Not over nest boxes. Hens prefer dim nests; a bright window above encourages egg-pecking and discourages laying there.
- Under the roof overhang. So rain does not blow straight in.
Our ventilation without drafts guide explains the airflow logic.
Hardware cloth vs insect screen vs chicken wire
| Material | Stops raccoons | Stops insects | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch hardware cloth | Yes, if properly fixed | No | Every window, always |
| Window insect screen | No | Yes | Optional extra layer behind hardware cloth |
| Chicken wire | No | No | Not for windows; raccoons tear or reach through it |
Fix hardware cloth with screws and fender washers, not just staples, and overlap it onto the frame. See hardware cloth fasteners and hardware cloth vs chicken wire.
Glazing: glass, polycarbonate or acrylic
| Material | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Polycarbonate | Very impact-resistant, light, cuts with basic tools | Can scratch; check for UV protection |
| Acrylic (plexiglass) | Clear, light, inexpensive | More brittle than polycarbonate; can crack when drilled carelessly |
| Glass | Clear, scratch-resistant | Breaks; sharp shards in a coop are dangerous; heavy |
| Twin-wall polycarbonate | Insulating, diffuses light | Not clear; edges need sealing |
For most coops, polycarbonate is the practical pick. Recycled house windows can work but put the hardware cloth on the inside so hens never touch the glass.
Summer and winter window setups
Summer
Open fully, with hardware cloth in place. Add insect screen if flies or mosquitoes are a problem. Shade the outside of sun-facing windows with an overhang, shade cloth or awning.
Winter
Close or partly close windows near roosts. Keep high vents open; moisture is the main winter enemy. Some keepers fit a removable clear panel over the window so light still enters. Do not seal the coop airtight.
Cover styles
- Hinged flap that props open and latches closed.
- Sliding panel in a track.
- Removable insert held with turn buttons.
Adding a window to an existing coop
- Pick the spot using the placement rules above, between studs.
- Mark and cut with a jigsaw after drilling corner holes.
- Frame the opening with strips of wood inside and out.
- Fix hardware cloth across the opening, overlapping the frame, with screws and washers.
- Fit the cover: hinged flap, slider or clear panel.
- Add a drip edge or small overhang above it.
- Seal cut edges of plywood with exterior sealant.
Prefab coops often benefit from extra openings; see adding vents to a prefab coop.
How much window is enough?
There is no single standard. Keepers often aim for enough window and vent area that the coop is bright inside on a cloudy day and does not smell of ammonia. Hot climates need more openable area; cold climates need more high, protected venting and less low window area near the roosts. Watch for condensation and ammonia smell as your guides.
Windows and laying
Day length affects egg laying. Natural light through windows supports normal laying patterns. If you add artificial light for winter laying, that is a separate decision with trade-offs; see supplemental light for winter eggs.
Common coop window mistakes
| Mistake | Why it matters | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Window level with the roost | Cold air flows across sleeping birds in winter | Move the roost, or close that window in winter and rely on high vents |
| Only insect screen over the opening | Raccoons tear screen easily | Add hardware cloth behind or in front of it |
| Hardware cloth held only by staples | Staples can be pulled out by a determined predator | Screws with fender washers at close spacing |
| Large unshaded west window | Overheats the coop on summer afternoons | Overhang, shade cloth or a tinted panel |
| Window that cannot be opened | Adds light but no airflow | Hinged or sliding cover so it can be opened in summer |
| Window above the nest boxes | Bright nests discourage laying and can encourage egg pecking | Move nests, or cover that part of the window |
Keeping windows working
Coop windows get dusty fast. Chicken dust is fine and builds up on screens and glazing, cutting both light and airflow. A few habits keep them working:
- Brush screens monthly. A soft brush or shop vacuum clears dust from hardware cloth and insect screen.
- Wipe glazing. Clean polycarbonate with mild soap and water and a soft cloth; abrasive cleaners scratch it.
- Check fasteners. Look for loose screws, bent hardware cloth and gaps at the edges each season.
- Clear cobwebs. Spiders love coop windows. Dust and cobwebs near any electrical fittings are a fire concern; see coop dust and fire risk.
- Free up stuck covers before winter so you can close them when you need to.
Window plans by climate
Hot and humid
Large openable windows on at least two walls, hardware cloth throughout, deep overhangs and shade. Close nothing tightly except in storms.
Cold and snowy
Smaller windows placed high or away from roosts, removable clear panels for winter, and continuous high vents that stay open all year.
Wet and mild
Windows under generous overhangs so rain does not blow in, with enough opening to dry the coop between showers.
Mixed seasons
Openable windows with hinged or sliding covers, so you can change the setup through the year.
If you are unsure whether you have enough airflow, a simple temperature and humidity sensor tells you a lot. Persistent high humidity or condensation inside means you need more ventilation, not less.
FAQ
Do chicken coops need windows?
Windows are not strictly required, but daylight and summer airflow make a coop drier and more pleasant. Vents high on the walls are essential either way.
Should coop windows be covered in winter?
Close or partly close windows near the roost to prevent drafts, but keep high vents open so moisture can escape.
What should I cover coop windows with?
Always hardware cloth fixed with screws and washers for predator protection. Add insect screen or a clear panel as needed.
Can I use an old house window in a coop?
Yes, many keepers reuse old windows. Fit hardware cloth on the inside so hens never touch the glass, make sure it can open for summer airflow, and check that it seals well enough to keep rain out.
Is glass safe in a chicken coop?
Broken glass is a hazard. Polycarbonate is a safer, lighter alternative. If you use glass, keep hardware cloth on the inside so hens cannot touch it.
The bottom line
Put coop windows high or away from the roosts, back every one with hardware cloth fixed properly, and glaze with polycarbonate rather than glass. Open them wide in summer, close them down near roosts in winter while keeping high vents open, and shade sun-facing windows in hot climates. Done that way, windows make a coop brighter, drier and easier to live with.