Affiliate disclosure: We earn a commission when you buy through links on this page, including as an Amazon Associate and eBay Partner Network affiliate, at no extra cost to you. We don't invent test results or prices, so always check the current listing.
- Penn State Extension says to bury wire at least 12 inches deep and toe it outward about 6 inches. Maryland Extension says a 12-inch to 1.5-foot trench with hardware cloth.
- A flat apron is less digging on an existing run, but no apron width is quoted in these sources, so ask locally.
- Use welded hardware cloth, not chicken wire, and fasten with screws and washers at the run wall.
- Contact 811 before trenching, and treat wire in the ground as one layer among several.
The short answer: bury it on new builds, lay an apron over existing runs
Both methods put welded wire mesh where a digging predator will hit it. A buried skirt sits in a trench around the run, and an apron lies flat on the ground and extends outward from the base. The extension pages describe the buried version: Penn State Extension says to bury the wire at least 12 inches deep along the pen border and toe it outward about 6 inches, and University of Maryland Extension says to dig a trench 12 inches to 1.5 feet deep and put hardware cloth in it. For a run you already have, a flat apron is far less digging, but neither extension page gives an apron width, so ask locally before choosing one.
This guide compares the two on effort, fit and upkeep, and lists the materials and fasteners for each. For the full picture on coop security, see our predator-proofing guide.
What each method is, and how it stops a digger
Buried wire skirt
You dig a trench around the run, attach hardware cloth to the bottom of the run wall, run it down into the trench and, in Penn State Extension's version, toe it outward about 6 inches at the bottom. A predator that digs at the fence meets the mesh a foot or more down. University of Maryland Extension says a trench of 12 inches to 1.5 feet deep with hardware cloth in it prevents digging predators.
Ground-level apron
You lay hardware cloth flat on the ground, attached to the bottom of the run wall and extending outward, then cover it. A predator that starts digging beside the fence hits the mesh before it can tunnel under. Grass or soil on top gradually holds the mesh in place and hides it. This is a common way to protect a run that is already built, but the extension pages cited here do not describe it, so no distance is claimed.
Penn State Extension adds one detail for either design: burying the fence with medium-sized coarse gravel makes digging less likely. Kathy Shea Mormino, writing on The Chicken Chick blog, also says to bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep around the perimeter, or under the floor of the coop and run, and says chicken wire is not recommended as security fencing.
Side by side
| Question | Buried skirt | Ground-level apron |
|---|---|---|
| Digging effort | Highest: a trench around the whole perimeter | Lower: remove sod or level the strip, lay mesh, cover it |
| Best for | New runs, or when you are already digging for posts | Existing runs and ground with roots, rock or hard soil |
| What a digger meets | Mesh a foot or more down | Mesh at the surface, just outside the fence |
| Lawn care | Nothing on the surface to catch a mower or trimmer | Edges can catch a blade until grass covers it |
| Upkeep | Hard to inspect once buried | Easy to see and fix, but check for lifted edges after rain and frost |
| Sourced guidance | Penn State and Maryland Extension give depths | No width in the cited sources; check locally |
Digging predators vary, and so does the soil. A predator that stays at the fence line is handled by either design. One that digs well away from the run may find a way around an apron that is too narrow. If you are not sure what digs in your area, ask a local extension office or wildlife agency, and use their guidance before choosing a width.
Materials checklist
- Welded hardware cloth. Avoid thin chicken wire. Penn State Extension says to avoid wire or gaps big enough for a bird to push its head through, and University of Maryland Extension suggests sealing coop entry points larger than a quarter inch. Check the opening size and wire thickness on the listing. Our guides to hardware cloth versus chicken wire and wire mesh versus hardware cloth explain the difference.
- Galvanized or coated material, because it sits in damp soil. Check the coating on the listing.
- Tin snips and gloves. Cut ends are sharp, so wear gloves and eye protection.
- Cover for an apron: soil, sod, gravel or pavers. Penn State Extension mentions medium-sized coarse gravel for buried fences.
- Edge supplies: a spade, a mattock or an edging tool.
Welded hardware cloth roll
Compare opening size, wire thickness and coating on the listing, and buy enough for the perimeter plus the width you plan to lay or bury. Check roll width against your plan.
Tin snips and cut-resistant gloves
Choose snips rated for the wire you buy, and gloves that fit well enough to handle cut mesh safely.
Fasteners: where the weak points hide
A predator does not need to defeat the mesh if it can pull the seam apart. Both designs depend on how the mesh is fastened to the run, to itself and to the ground.
- Where it meets the run wall. Fasten along the bottom rail of the run frame with no gaps. Screws with washers can hold mesh better than staples alone, since staples can pull out of wood. Use exterior-rated fasteners.
- Where sheets meet. Overlap the edges and join them with wire ties, hog rings or a similar fastener rated for the job, so there is no seam to push through.
- Across the surface (apron). Pin the mesh to the ground with ground staples or landscape pins so it cannot lift, then cover it.
- At corners and gates. Gaps at corners and under gates are common weak points. Run the mesh around corners in one piece where you can, and check the gate threshold.
Cut ends and loose wire are a hazard to you and to the birds, so fold or cover sharp edges. Our roundup of predator-proof fencing covers fence styles and hardware.
Landscape staples or ground pins
Longer, heavier pins hold mesh better in loose soil. Check the length and gauge on the listing and pick ones that suit your soil.
Pair it with other layers, and check before you dig
Wire in the ground is one layer. Penn State Extension also lists covering runs with mesh or netting against flying predators, and locking birds in before dark if the run is not predator-proof. Some keepers add electric fencing, and Penn State notes running it about 4 inches off the ground and about one foot from the main fence to discourage predators. See our guide to electric fence chargers for chicken runs if you go that way, and the cautions in it.
Level and stable ground matters too, since a settled run leaves gaps at the base. Our guide to leveling a coop on a slope covers the base. And before any trenching or post digging, contact 811. The national service says it is free and asks that you contact it a few business days before digging, then wait for utilities to respond.
Rodents are a different pest, and they can squeeze through much smaller gaps. Our guide to rats and mice moving in during fall covers that side.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should predator wire be buried around a chicken run?
Penn State Extension says to bury the wire along the pen border at least 12 inches deep and toe it outward about 6 inches. University of Maryland Extension says a trench 12 inches to 1.5 feet deep with hardware cloth in it.
How wide should a predator apron be?
No width is quoted here, because the cited extension pages describe buried wire and do not give an apron width. Ask your local extension office or wildlife agency about the diggers in your area.
Is chicken wire okay for a digging apron?
Hardware cloth is the better choice. The Chicken Chick blog says chicken wire is not recommended as security fencing, and extension guidance calls for heavy-gauge mesh.
Can I add an apron to a run I already have?
Often yes. Fasten welded hardware cloth along the bottom of the run wall, lay it flat outward, pin it down and cover it with soil, sod, gravel or pavers. Check for gaps at corners and gates.
Do I need to call 811 before burying wire?
The national 811 service says contacting it is free and asks that you do so a few business days before any digging project. A trench around a run counts as digging.