Run protection
Building a Predator-Proof Chicken Run Gate
The run gate is usually the weakest part of an otherwise well-built run. It moves, it sags over time, it has gaps at the bottom and sides, and its latch is often a simple hook a raccoon can flip open.
This guide covers how to build a gate that stays square, closes tight and locks properly.
Quick answer
- Build a rigid, braced frame so the gate does not sag and open gaps at the latch side.
- Cover it in hardware cloth, the same as the run walls.
- Close the bottom gap with a threshold board, a buried sill, or a hardware cloth flap, and add an apron outside.
- Use heavy-duty hinges and a two-step or lockable latch, ideally on both sides.
- Check gate gaps every season; posts shift with frost and wet ground.
Why the gate is the weak point
- Sagging. Unbraced gates drop at the latch side, opening a widening gap at the bottom or top corner.
- Bottom gaps. Gates need clearance to swing, and that gap is often big enough for weasels, rats and snakes, or for a digger to enlarge.
- Side gaps. Between the gate and the post, especially on the hinge side.
- Weak latches. Raccoons are dexterous and can open hooks, simple slide bolts and gravity latches.
- Human error. A gate left unlatched is an open door.
Building a frame that stays square
- Set solid posts. Gate posts take more load than any other post in the run. Set them deeper or in concrete, and make the hinge post the strongest.
- Build a rectangular frame from straight, dry lumber. Many keepers use 2x4s.
- Add a diagonal brace running from the bottom of the hinge side up to the top of the latch side. This direction resists sagging.
- Consider a turnbuckle kit on wider gates to pull them back into square later.
- Keep it reasonably narrow. A gate wide enough for a wheelbarrow is useful; very wide gates sag more and need stronger hinges.
Covering the gate
Use the same hardware cloth as the run walls. Wrap it around the frame edges so there are no cut wire ends sticking out, and fix it with screws and fender washers at close spacing. Chicken wire is not predator-proof; see hardware cloth vs chicken wire.
Fix hardware cloth to the outside face of the frame where possible, so a predator pushing on it presses it into the wood rather than away from the fasteners.
Closing the bottom gap
| Method | How it works | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Threshold board | A board or paver set flush with the ground under the gate; the gate closes just above it | Simple, keeps the gap small; keep it clear of bedding and debris |
| Buried sill | A board or concrete strip buried partly in the ground under the gate opening | Stops digging directly under the gate |
| Wire apron under the gate | Hardware cloth laid flat on the ground across the gate opening and outward | Continue the run's apron across the opening; cover with soil or pavers |
| Rubber or wire sweep | A strip fixed to the bottom of the gate that brushes the ground | Reduces small gaps; not a barrier against determined diggers on its own |
Most good gates use two together, such as a threshold and an apron. See predator apron vs buried wire.
Closing side and top gaps
- Add a stop strip on the post so the gate closes against it, covering the gap.
- Cover any gap on the hinge side with a strip of hardware cloth or wood.
- If the run has a roof, make sure the gate top meets it with no gap; add a header board.
- Check gaps with the gate pushed and pulled; a gap that opens when you lean on the gate will open for a raccoon too.
Hinges and latches
Hinges
Use heavy-duty strap or T-hinges rated for gate use, fixed with long screws or through-bolts into the frame and post. Three hinges on taller gates reduce sagging.
Latches
Raccoons can open single-action latches. Use a two-step latch, a carabiner through the latch, or a padlockable hasp. A second latch near the bottom stops the lower corner being pried open.
See raccoon-proof latches for options. In freezing climates, see frozen latches and hinges.
Habits that keep the gate secure
Spring closer
A gate spring or self-closing hinge means the gate does not stay open behind you.
Latch both sides
A latch inside lets you close it while working in the run.
Night check
Add "gate latched" to your lock-up routine.
Seasonal check
Frost heave and wet soil move posts. Check gaps spring and fall.
Our September inspection checklist includes gate checks.
Upgrading a prefab run gate
Many prefab runs come with lightweight gates, simple latches and chicken wire. Upgrade by adding hardware cloth over the wire, swapping the latch for a two-step one with a carabiner, adding a threshold and apron, and adding a stop strip to cover side gaps. Our coop listing guide covers what to check before you buy.
The double-gate airlock idea
Some keepers with large walk-in runs build a small enclosed entry: an outer gate, a short vestibule, then an inner gate into the run. Only one gate is open at a time. It costs more lumber and wire, but it has real benefits:
- Hens cannot slip past your legs and escape when you walk in.
- If you forget to latch the outer gate, the inner one is still closed.
- The vestibule is a handy spot for a boot tray, a hook for tools and a bin of bedding.
- It creates a natural place to change footwear, which helps biosecurity. See flock biosecurity.
Even a simple single gate benefits from the same thinking: keep a boot tray right outside, and latch the gate behind you every time.
Gate inspection checklist
- Gate closes fully without lifting or pushing.
- No gap at the bottom wider than the hardware cloth mesh.
- Side gaps covered with a stop strip or wire.
- Diagonal brace intact; gate still square.
- Hinge screws tight; no rust-through on hinges.
- Latch works smoothly and has a secondary lock.
- Apron in place across the gate opening; no fresh digging.
- Hardware cloth undamaged, with no cut ends sticking out.
Spend five minutes on this list each spring and fall, and after any heavy storm or frost heave.
Choosing gate size and swing
Think about what will pass through the gate before you build it. A person-only gate can be narrower and is easier to keep square. A gate wide enough for a wheelbarrow or garden cart makes cleaning and bedding changes far easier, but needs stronger posts, hinges and bracing.
- Swing clearance. Make sure the gate can open fully without hitting feeders, waterers or the coop ramp. A gate that only opens halfway gets propped and forgotten.
- Snow. In snowy areas, an outward-swinging gate can be blocked by drifts. Inward-swinging gates avoid that but sweep through the run's bedding.
- Slope. On sloping ground, a gate swinging uphill will hit the ground. Hang it to swing downhill or level the ground in the swing path.
FAQ
How do I stop predators getting under my run gate?
Close the bottom gap with a threshold board or buried sill, and continue the run's wire apron across the gate opening.
What latch keeps raccoons out?
Use a two-step latch, add a carabiner through it, or use a padlockable hasp. A second latch near the bottom of the gate helps too.
Why does my chicken run gate sag?
Usually a lack of diagonal bracing, weak hinges or a moving hinge post. Add a brace from bottom hinge side to top latch side, upgrade hinges and set the post more firmly.
Should a chicken run gate open in or out?
Either can work. Outward-opening gates do not push bedding around inside; inward-opening gates are harder to pull open from outside. Choose what suits your space and secure it well.
The bottom line
A predator-proof run gate needs a braced frame on solid posts, hardware cloth fixed with screws and washers, a closed bottom and side gaps, strong hinges and a latch a raccoon cannot work. Add a spring so it closes behind you, and check it every spring and fall. It is a small part of the run, but it is where most problems start.